Choosing wood cutting tools for your survival gear can be complicated because of weight. Axes, hatchets, and saws can be heavy and cumbersome. A much lighter option is a flexible saw.
A flexible saw, or survival chainsaw, is a chainsaw-type blade strung between two handles. They all weigh in at 5 or 6 o.z. At that weight I can’t think why you wouldn’t want one in your survival gear.
Besides weight, it is pretty amazing how effective these things can be with very little effort. (See the video below) You just wrap it around a tree or piece of wood and slide back and forth.
After poking around online for a while I found there are 3 different saws that seem to be the most popular. The Unbelievable Saw, The Pocket Chainsaw, and The SaberCut saw
After looking at all three and reading customer reviews I think the SaberCut Saw is probably the best choice for a couple of reasons.
Loop Handles
It has loops instead of handles. Obviously your hands are going to get tired using this thing for long periods of time. Being able to put those around your wrists and pull with your arms instead of holding on with your fingers is going to be a huge advantage.
Also check out how the SaberCut connects to the blade and loops with metal clips and both the others use little pieces of nylon.
The SaberCut
Unbelievable Saw
Pocket Chainsaw
Chainsaw Blade
The SaberCut has a more traditional chainsaw blade that is stronger and can be sharpened with a chainsaw sharpening kit, whereas the others have saw tooth blades that will become dull faster and are harder to sharpen because there are so many. (Incidentally, who knew you could buy a chainsaw sharpening kit for your Dremel – Awesome)
The SaberCut is an actual chain, the other two are flat pieces of metal stamped together.
The SaberCut
Unbelievable Saw
Pocket Pocket Chainsaw
Pouch
The SaberCut saw comes with a pouch for easy carrying. The Pocket Chainsaw comes in a metal tin, and the Unbelievable Saw comes in a ziplock bag. (unbelievable). We are survivalists and every piece of gear needs a pouch. Period.
The SaberCut
Unbelievable Saw
Pocket Chainsaw
Specs
Here’s the quick specs on the SaberCut:
Material: Blade & handle clips: Black oxide coated steel
Weight: (saw and case): 6 ounces (170.1g)
Blade Length: 24 inches
You can get the SaberCut @ Forge Survival Supply for 25.99.
Video
Here is a short video of the SaberCut Saw in action. It is really a commercial from the company, but you still get to see it.
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Like everything else, it depends. Generally I say tent, but I carry a tarp or plastic drop cloth for under the tent as well. If you're going to be someplace w/o insects or blowing rain/cold wind, a tarp would probably be fine. But I find a one-man tent pretty light and more effective across most situations. Plus the tent can stand alone where there are no trees. These are pretty good;
http://trestlebros.ecrater.com//product.php?pid=6…
That is something you should experiment with, come back and let us know how it works.
i am going to i have a buddy that is a metal smith so i can use his tools i think that will make it better lol i will let you know
Caine,
Good point. I did a little more digging and here's what I've come up with:
1- You have to find a secure way to attach the straps to the blade. Since you have access to a metal shop that might not be very difficult. For other it might be.
2 – It comes with a carry pouch. Really not a big deal, but still.
3. Finally, and really the only good reason, from the Ultimate Survival Technologies website:
"Unlike a standard chain saw blade which only cuts in one direction, the patented SaberCut™ blade cuts in both directions resulting in more efficient and less strenuous cutting. In addition, the cutting teeth are self-cleaning and require little maintenance beyond standard care and occasional sharpening. When sharpening is needed, you can use a standard chain saw blade sharpener (1/8")."
So really the one sided blade is the biggest drawn back.
But like Josh mentioned if you decided to do it be sure to let us know.
in response to number one: if you look at a chain it is not that hard as long as you have a punch and a drill.
number two: another thing that the compass pouch is good for lol.
number three: you can always use the chain saw file and sharpen the back side of the regular blade i am doing some experimenting with them now I figured out the handle and the pouch but still need to work on the double edge a little
other than that once i have my own i will send you and josh the pics of it.
I see that no one has answered this Question. The saws in question work in both directions, a chainsaw chain will only cut in one direction.
never mind, i didn't read all the comments……….
Yes it’s really easy but time consuming all you need to do is take and switch every other tooth the other way arround so it cuts when you pull it each direction I did this and braided some paracord loops for handles and now I have the exact same thing as here’s but I have 20 feet of extra paracord in the handles that I could easily remove and just attach about 8 inches of it on each Side to get the job done but it’s much move comfortable with the wide braided handles I made for it
A big disadvantage, or safety issue is that you are now "tied" to what you are cutting. I would hate to be engrossed in cutting wood in this way and someone suddenly come up on me. With your wrists in the straps you are already tied up. Also, if something falls out of the tree, you cannot run. Having a team mate providing security and checking for "widow makers" is a good idea when using the "Saber Cut". Be able to roll your own and repair your own gear is always a big plus. However, the price is about what a chain saw would run anyway. I am picking one up….
mike,
that's something I hadn't even thought about, but a very good point.
I think having a team mate with you at all times, not just when using this saw, if probably a good idea.
When you get yours let us know how it works for you
if you dont want to be attached what you can do is just take two pieces of wood and slip them in the handles, then if something happens just let go of the handles
Um, use a an ax, or a machete. Faster, cheaper and more reliable. Axes are multi-taskers, no uni-taskers for me!
Blindgibbon,
I've chopped larger firewood with an axe and it's not exactly fun or fast.
If you are having a long term fire (i.e. more than a day) you're going to need a good amount of wood.
I would much rather section the wood with a pocket chainsaw like this than an axe.
I'd say they both have their uses in your survival tool kit, and as small and compact as the chainsaw is I don't see a reason not to take it if you can.
Survival is a calorie game, you want to take in more calories then you use, and these saws just burn way more calories than an axe, and they can break, dull and bind up. They are simply less efficient than an axe.
I will say that there is one reason I can think of why one of these things would be useful and that is for concealement and stealth, they probabl make less noise than an axe.
The thing you are forgetting is portability. While you certainly can strap an axe to your pack, its a lot easier to just stick one of these little saws in your pocket or in your pack, that and these saws weigh a whole lot less. Take your pick…
I, and several outdoor organiations disagree with you. "Although the axe is a traditional wood working tool, saws are usually recommended for trail work because they are safer and generally more efficient." from http://www.americantrails.org/resources/info/tool…
An Axe also requires more energy just to carry. So, an axe is less efficient, more dangerous and causes more calories to be burned even when you aren't using it. Saw 3, axe 0.
If you're just cutting with muscle power, the calories would be the same. If I remember my college physics class (and I was never that good at it anyway), it tells us that it takes the same amount of energy to bring it down. It's just like running a mile vs walking a mile. They both burn the same number of calories. But I do agree that I'd rather have the ax. Something about the pocket chainsaw looks like it wouldn't hold up over the long-haul. Although, I would much rather carry 6 ounces instead of 20 pounds depending on the conditions I'm expecting to be under.
You're forgetting one component: kinetic energy.
When you start from rest, Potential energy is converted to kinetic energy and work energy (given off as heat).
Kinetic energy = 1/2 mv^2, where v= velocity and m = mass. The faster you run, the more energy you need. That's why fish don't swim fast unless they need to.
It would be interesting to calculate the expended energy required in swinging an axe (pendulum) vs pulling a chain. I'll get back to you on that =)
But you aren’t just cutting with muscle power. A saw has a friction element that an axe does not have. It is also in continuous contact with the wood and spends more time cutting. An axe spends a third to a quarter ot its time either being pulled from the cut or being swung to make the cut. When it does cut it takes out large chips of wood compaired to the saw. The larger the axe the more energy expended to swing but the deeper the cut made.
Skill also plays a big role in using an axe. I have seen people that could fell a tree in 10 to 15 swings and other people that took an hour to fell an equally sized tree.
It really is more than just cutting with muscle power.
you cut a med thick (fat) tree and as the fire burns what is in the fire pit you push the 'log' on in a bit more. We have done this often….. no ned to cut every PIECE you burn to fire pit length.
The best survival book you can get is the Boy Scout Manual. Period.
I have had my copy for about 12-13 years now and it has never failed me.
However, it is a book that covers a lot of topics and can only give limited information on each subject.
If you need more detail you'll need a dedicated book.
The Scout Field Book is even better imo.
nahhhhh.. the scouts are strait but you gotta go with a civil air patrol field manual.
it seems like for fire wood purpouses you could use a sturdy knife with a good club and cut down smaller trees easier, the only thing i think you need an axe or chainsaw for would be building a long term log cabin
You can certainly fell and split small trees with a knife, but if you have ever had to do it for a long time as in keeping a fire going all day, an axe sure makes things a lot nicer.
The biggest potential issue I see, and which has already been touched on, is the fact that you are tethered to the tree which you are attempting to fall. If you have your hands in those loops, especially with gloves on, you may not be able to move quick enough if the tree decides to fall your way. I like the idea of using sticks to create quick release handles. In any case…I think one of these will be finding its way into my pack soon.
I have the Pocket Chainsaw and its awesome. It works fast, its flexible, and packs small. Not to mention the fact that the can protects it from weather. Ive used this saw for a long time and havent had it dull on me. I just oil it and put it in the can. Small sticks through the rings work well as handles. I dont think Id bother with loops.
One word: Sawvivor
Lightweight, folds up nicely (spare blades store in the handle… NOT ripping up your pack) and it *really* cuts.
these saws are dangerous for cutting standing timber as you are standing in the direction of the falling tree i would however make one out of one of my chainsaw chains for cutting already fallen logs or branches
There are three of these saws at harborfrieght.com….a tiny cable saw($3.00)…a larger chain saw ($7.00)…and the largest hand chain saw ($17.00)
There is also a "high reach" chain saw that is a little longer saw blade on ropes. You can use it to cut high branches, too. Works from up close to 20 feet in the air.
you would never cut a tree down with one of these, thats insane, even a small tree is too much. they're not for felling. they're for bucking up timber on the ground, branches, and self defense. if you drop a tree on yourself with one of these…well a guy named darwin will be waiting to have a talk about physics with you just inside the pearly gates. learn to use an axe. also the difference between short and long term survival tactics.
As far as a need for one, as Mr. brandon says, you might want to add a cache or a bunker to your cabin list. But I agree with Mr. Andy and I'm glad that some one brought it up, though he wasn't the only one. Cutting timber with my chainsaw I have seen some trees do some weird shit, as Mr. Cain can probably attest to, and I would not want my hands caught in those straps when I am in a hurry to unass the area that the falling tree is trying to occupy. I would opt for falling the tree with my double-bit and then using this saw to cut the flat edged cuts that I might need for construction purposes. And I am with Mr. Cain on his first comment; why can't I just make these out of my own chain saw stock, which I buy in a bulk roll. Scouts Out
I have used the pocket and Unbelievable saws… both with disappointing results. Maybe I just don't know my own strength (not to sound cocky) or maybe they are just junk! The pocket chainsaw lasted about 3 pulls and the handle broke off, the Unbelievable saw lived up to its name cause I couldn't believe that it broke in half on the second thick limb I was trying to cut with it!
Haven't tried the Sabercut, and I am somewhat reluctant to after the others. However I might have to give it a shot after reading this article. Where were you a coule years go when I wasted all that money on that garbage!!!
Keep up the good work!
for long term survival, you definitely don't want an ax, unless you live next to a hospital.
i agree With GettingReady,these small saws are ideal for downed wood.i do tree work for a living and i would never use one of these saws for felling trees,it very very dangerous,ive seen trees do funny things in my 18 years of tree work.the only thing i would use in a survival situation is an axe or a crosscut saw.also like GettingReady stated if you are going to fell a tree it is a good idea to have a couple of wedges for directinal felling also if you use one of thse saws to buck up wood on the ground a wedge will keep the saw from being pinched,an two wedges are better than one REMEMBER= TWO IS ONE ONE IS NONE
For felling large trees to maintain a fire I like to use fire just use my hip knife to burr up the side then light the tree on fire and use my knife to scrape the embers once in a while it take a bit to learn how to just let it do it’s thing but you can burn strait through a large tree with minimal effort I normally work on this for a couple hours while doing other stuff like cooking and eating you can tension the tree to a nearby tree with some paracord to speed it up but In a game of calories letting the tree burn it’s self down a d using my pocket chainsaw to break in down to logs is ideal to me
Amen, brother. Even when you cut the perfect notch, if you hook a branch in the canopy, or have unbalanced growth you might find yourself on the wrong end of the stump. Remember, the most dangerous jobs are farmer, logger, fisherman, and miner. But you probably already know it.
At first I was thinking of a hand ax ( metal handle ) . But after reading several reviews on the hand chain saws , and how well they can work , I think I will get one and replace the ax with a machete instead . Lot less weight .
look on budk.com for the black survival knife, it cost $15.00. it comes with a small surivial kit in the handle, a slingshot in the sheath, a harpoon, mirror, a whistle. the bade is 10 inch, with a 5 inch handle, its tang comes to about 2 inch in to the handle. i do not like the blade but for small work it would do but i would consider a kurki machete for the heavy duty work. it also has a wire saw,wire cutter, and a compass, i do not recommend using the compass however. it also comes with a 1inch pencil but no paper and a band-aid, and a small fishing kit.
The first thig I was taught when felling trees was to make sure I had an escape route. If the fall goes wrong, like when there's a hang up, or the butt kicks out, you want to be well out of the way, not tied to the stump. Just saying…
Now for cutting wood that's already down, well, that's a whole 'nother story.
The tree only falls away from you only if the top is in the clear and you've cut a proper relief notch. Otherwise where she lands, nobody knows.
for any sawing i use my super mach. its a saw and machete in one matrix . heavy duty and weighs 2.5 lbs .. cuts using a cross cut pattern M M M M and it can cut trees 2 feet in diameter
If I was using one to fell a tree, I'd use 20-30 feet of 550 paracord and stand waaaay back.
my father build one similiar using paracord and an old chain saw chain to cut high branches off of oak trees in our yard about 25 years ago and i wanted to take down a branch off of a black walnut in my home earlier this summer and remembered that he made one. so i bought a chain from harbour frieght while i was in there and made one in about half an hour and it worked great !!! thanks for the lessons PoP
My first thought was I don't want to be attached to the tree, although I would recommend this saw to all the tree-huggers out there!!
I have had a pocket chainsaw for about 15 years, and have used it some, with great success. On one occasion I cleared a large ~6 inch or so branch from a pine tree which was about 20 feet up, by throwing a line over the branch, and tying into the pocket saw. I have never seen any problems with strength, unless there was a kink or twist which could pop a rivet somehow. The rivets work perfectly well on a standard chainsaw without failing, don't see much difference.
Given that this saw is bi-directional, they have disassembled a standard chainsaw blade, and alternated the cutter teeth, which beans breaking and re-riveting the old chain multiple times.
As far as dissing the pocket chainsaw because it comes in a tin instead of a pouch, give me a break, the tin keeps the sharp teeth safely, and I can easily put the tin in a pocket of a fanny pack, which I do anyway. I wear out nylon pouches which I wear on my belt, and that tin is still going strong.
People survied for centuries with only an axe.
I'm not lazy by any stretch of the imagination, but what about a small battery powered chain saw. I know that this is about a pocket saw, but if I am bugging-in somewhere I would want a cordless 16" chain saw (oregon has one and it doesn't do to bad) I know it's expensive and you would also have to buy a solar panel or some other means of recharging the battery, but I think for the time and man power it would save (both things that will most likely be sorely needed) it could make a huge difference. I do admit that I tend to be more of a high tech survivalist.
In the words of a smart man in my life "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it " he was speaking of firearms but it goes for most everything
If you really want a saw that is portable you'd be better off with a Sven Saw. $28.00 on Amazon.
You don't have to worry about the tree falling on you and its probably a lot less likely to break.
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Don't think anyone has mentioned this:
The reason this little gem is in my BoB is that in wet weather (which we have plenty of where I'm from), dry tinder can become scarce. Pop quiz- What in nature flames up better than anything else? SAWDUST! When cutting wood for a fire, you'd create a ton of this to start the thing. I'd call that multi tasking in the best way, making this a superior tool and conserving calories at the same time.
A folding "buck" saw cuts better, is more safe, packs better, and is less work.
Thanks, we are looking forward to it.
I'm not familiar with that one, but have had lots of experience with Felco saws. They are the easiest cutting saw blades I have ever worked with. They make both folding and fixed blade saws.
I believe you are thinking of Isaac Newton. Darwin was a biologist.
Now, now. Let's not be too hasty. When in need, and all that.
However, these saws wouldn't be my first choice, or even my second.
Amen, brother. But you'd have to move damn quick. Falling objects travel 16 feet in the first second. How good are your reflexes?
One bad drop and your ribs are staved in, or your head is retooled. But these saws are probably okay for cutting downed timber.
I also noticed that as soon as he locked it around his wrists. Seems a bit dangerous. Probably should just hold the loops in your hands.
I don't know if I'd take the risk. If the butt kicks out you've had it.
If you use these saws on fallen timber you still need both hands, and are going to have difficulty bracing your material with your foot.
But hey, almost anything is better than using your fingernails and teeth.
Your word is good enough for me. After all, you have first hand experience. But it seems a little too risky for me…
Perhaps he was speaking of the Darwin awards for taking oneself out of the gene pool?
Just watching the video made me nervous! I don't think I could make myself cut down a tree with the blade and tree pointing at me.
chopping tools can be noisy, i agree they are quicker but for stealth you may want this for backup.
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